August 5, 2024

Briançon, 1,290m

After a day’s rest and a night at the Hotel de la Chaussée, I wake up full of energy at around 7am. I leave the hotel around 8 a.m. and once out of town, I start climbing towards Chalets des Ayes via a track and then along the river. I take a break along the way to eat a peach and a banana, which will be one less thing to carry.

Chalets des Ayes, 1.715m

I arrive at the Chalets des Ayes, a few small houses and the river, it’s peaceful and feels as if time has stopped here. A cyclist who overtook me on his bike on the way up calls out to me from a wooden table outside, inviting me in for a coffee. I’m intrigued by this tiny house and ask him if he lives there, he tells me it’s an old family home with a stable underneath, and it hasn’t changed much since. He tells me that they’ve kept it just as it was, and that he spent all his summers there with his family. I’m lucky enough to get a guided tour of the barn, the small living room and the attic, where the wood is blackened because in those days they built fires directly in it, without a chimney. No electricity, not too much network, but everything you need to live.

I resume the climb to the Col des Ayes, first in the forest then in full sunshine.

Col des Ayes, 2,477m

I arrive at the pass around noon and there’s a bit of air, which feels good. I descend fairly quickly towards Brunissard.

Brunissard, 1.783m

Campsite

Just before the village, a campsite in the middle of nowhere looks really nice under the trees. A little further on, I stop at a wooden table to get ready for lunch, which will be mashed potatoes with my leftover tartare cheese and tofu with almonds and sesame seeds. I continue downhill to Chalp, this time on the road, then climb back up into the forest towards Lac de Roue.

Lac de Roue, 1,853m

Bivouac possible

The lake is magnificent, surrounded by forest, and looks great for a bivouac, but I’ve still got some energy left and it’s 3.30pm so I decide to carry on and head down to Château Queyras.

Chateau-Queyras, 1.350m

Bivouacs possible, clean public toilets

I had spotted a campsite or bivouac area on the IGN map, but when I arrived I realized that it no longer existed – it had closed. I’m told I can pitch my tent there, but the place doesn’t inspire me, and there’s no water, so I decide to look for another place to spend the night. I go back over the bridge because I think I’ve spotted some flat spots on the other side of the river. I find a perfect little spot with direct access to the river so I can wash up. I make myself a freeze-dried pasta with boletus mushrooms, then wait until 7.30pm to pitch the tent.