Preparing for the GR5 Trail on Foot in the French Alps
26 stages, 600 km, 30,000 EG.
During the summer of 2024, I walked from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean in semi-autonomy.
Stages, practical information, favorite bivouacs, preparation – I’m sharing with you my experience of the GR5 (GTA) in semi-autonomy, from Lake Geneva to Nice.
Preparing for the GR5, practical information
- 25 to 35 days on average
- 600km and 30,000m of elevation gain
- Ideal from mid-June to mid-September
- Bivouac or refuge
What is the total distance of the GR5?
The total distance of the GR5 in its Alpine crossing is around 600 km, with a cumulative climb of around 30,000 metres. If you choose the Menton variant, the route is slightly longer. There are several other possible variants along the way.
How long does it take to walk the GR5?
Most hikers take between 25 and 35 days to cover the entire route. Some do it in less time, while others prefer to take more time to enjoy the scenery and rest. You have to listen to yourself, as this route is enjoyed differently by everyone. I had initially planned for around thirty days, in order to average 1,000m of positive ascent per day. My body got used to the distance and I ended up doing the route over 26 stages + 3 days of complete rest (including a night in a comfortable hotel halfway to Briançon).
When is the best time to do the GR5?
The ideal period is between mid-June and mid-September. Before mid-June, there may still be a lot of snow at altitude, and after mid-September, the weather becomes more unstable, with the risk of first snows. July and August offer the safest conditions, but are also the busiest period. Having done the GR5 myself in July/August, I didn’t get the feeling that it was too crowded, except on a few passages such as the section in common with the Tour du Mont Blanc, and some XL-size refuges in the Vanoise.
How do I get to the start of the GR5?
To reach Saint-Gingolph (traditional departure from the shores of Lake Geneva):
- By train + ferry: take the train to Lausanne, then the ferry to Saint-Gingolph (the arrival by boat is magical!).
- Nearest airport: Geneva
To depart from Nice or Menton (arrival) :
- By train: Nice SNCF station with good connections
- Nearest airport : Nice
- Thonon-les-Bains
- Les Houches
- Landry
- Modane
- Briançon
- Guillestre
- Sospel
Bivouacs on the GR5
Bivouacs are possible along most of the route, but the rules vary depending on the area you cross, so be sure to check the regulations or pay attention to the signs:
- In protected areas, bivouacs are generally tolerated from 7pm to 7am.
- Beware of the Vanoise National Park: from June to September, bivouacs are only permitted in the vicinity of refuges, and booking is compulsory (bivouac reservation link for Vanoise refuges) -Fee 6€ including access to showers and hors sac area.
- Mercantour National Park: bivouacs authorized only between 7pm and 9am and more than an hour’s walk from park boundaries or road access
- In some nature reserves: bivouacs prohibited
- Outside these areas: bivouac generally tolerated
Do I need to book accommodation in advance?
How do you manage refuelling?
The GR5 regularly passes through villages where it is possible to refuel. In general, the maximum number of refreshment points is every 2 or 3 days.
As a rule, I always look to see where the next feed station is, so that when I buy food, I have enough to go around. I set off with about 6 freeze-dried packs, which I kept for the parts where there were fewer supplies. As for the rest, I was able to stock up in the villages and made a few meals in refuges (and lots of blueberry tarts!).
Maps and GPS applications
I’ve been using Iphigénie for hiking in France for several years now. I download IGN maps off-line so that I can always consult them, know where I am on the map and, if necessary, locate water points, refuges, shelters, relief, etc.
The GR5 is fairly well signposted, so I only used Iphigénie when I had doubts, or to check I was on the right path when visibility was poor.
Which weather forecast to consult?
Météo Blue is great for the mountains, it’s reliable and accurate, and we have access to satellite images.
Useful links
Visit Grande Traversée des Alpes website provides additional information to help you prepare for the GR5 (GPX in particular).
My breakdown of the GR5 into 26 stages
I had initially planned around 30 stages, but then I adapted to how I felt and to the weather. I was bivouacked, so I had the freedom to decide on the day, even if I usually decided in the morning how far I wanted to go.
I finally finished the GR5 in 26 stages, plus 3 days of complete rest.
I detail the 26 stages in my adventure story.
- Stage 0
Saint Gingolph – Novel
- Stage 1
Novel – Chapelle d’Abondance
- Stage 2
Chapelle d’Abondance – Refuge de Chésery
- Stage 3
Refuge Chésery – Cascade du Rouget
- Stage 4
Cascade du Rouget – Pont d’Arlevé
- Stage 5
Pont d’Arlevé – Les Houches
- Stage 6
Les Houches – Les Contamines
- Stage 7
Les Contamines – Plan de Mya
- Stage 8
Plan Mya – Landry
- Stage 9
Landry – Rosuel
- Stage 10
Rosuel – Tignes
- Stage 11
Tignes – Refuge d’Arpont
- Stage 12
Refuge d’Arpont – Plan Sec
- Stage 13
Plan Sec – Valfrejus
- Stage 14
Valfrejus – Névache
- Stage 15
Névache – Briançon
- Stage 16
Briançon – Château Queyras
- Stage 17
Chateau Queyras – Ceillac
- Stage 18
Ceillac – Fouillouse
- Stage 19
Fouillouse – Lac du Lauzanier
- Stage 20
Lac du Lauzanier – Saint-Dalmas-le-Selvage
- Stage 21
St Dalmas le Selvage – Roya
- Stage 22
Roya – Refuge de Longon
- Step 23
Refuge de Longon – Saint Dalmas Valdeblore
- Stage 24
Saint Dalmas Valdeblore – Utelle
- Stage 25
Utelle – Asprémont
- Stage 26
Asprémont – Nice
My gear list for the GR5 (8kg)
I did the GR5 semi-autonomously, with a base weight (before food and water) of just under 8kg.
Here’s all the gear I took on the GR5, with the weight of everything I put in my rucksack.
| LIST | CATEGORY | WEIGHT (gr) | Brand / Ref |
| Tshirt | About me | ||
| Short | About me | ||
| Socks | On me | ||
| Bra | On me | ||
| Shoes | About me | ||
| Sticks | About me | Forclaz MT 500 | |
| Waterproof jacket | Clothing | 360 | |
| Down jacket | Clothing | 310 | |
| Fleece | Clothing | 220 | |
| Spare T-shirt | Clothing | 90 | |
| Leggins | Clothing | 140 | |
| Spare shorts | Clothing | 90 | |
| Spare socks | Clothing | 40 | |
| Spare bra | Clothing | 60 | |
| Spare underwear | Clothing | 30 | |
| Cap | Clothing | 40 | |
| Gloves | Clothing | 35 | |
| Flip-flops | Clothing | 200 | |
| Mini Towel | Hygiene | 30 | Sea To Summit Airlite S |
| Toiletry kit | Hygiene | 400 | |
| Kleenex x3 | Hygiene | 60 | |
| First aid kit | Safety | 100 | |
| Backpacks | Packing | 1.370 | Millet – Ubic 40L |
| Banana | Packing | 80 | |
| Internal waterproof bag | Packing | 40 | Sea to Summit Ultra-sil 8L |
| Sunglasses case | Packing | 50 | |
| Tent | Sleeping accommodation | 1.400 | Big Agnes – Copper Spur 2-seater |
| Tent pads | Sleeping bag | 180 | Big Agnes – Copper Spur |
| Sleeping bag | Sleeping bag | 750 | Sea To Summit – Flame III -4 |
| Mattresses | Bedding | 510 | Forclaz MT 500 |
| Stove + lighter | Camp | 40 | Hamans BRS |
| Gas Cartridge | Camp | 190 | |
| Popote / Mug | Camp | 85 | Toaks 550ml titanium |
| Mini knife | Camp | 25 | Victorinox 6 cm |
| Spoon | Camp | 25 | Keith – titanium |
| Filter | Camp | 75 | Katadyn BeFree Tactical |
| 1L bottle | Camp | 150 | 24 Bottles |
| Headlamp | Camp | 35 | Petzel Bindi 200lm |
| Phone | Accessories | 200 | |
| Chargers | Accessories | 100 | |
| External battery | Accessory | 185 | |
| TOTAL | 7.695 |
