August 14, 2024

Saint-Dalmas-Valdeblore, 1,290m

Departure around 7am after a night at the campsite, where I’ve decided to head for Nice rather than Menton, in view of the stormy weather forecast for the next few days. I wanted to start the climb early, so as not to suffer from the heat like the day before. I begin my ascent towards the Col des Deux Caïres, the sky is rather overcast, which suits me fine.

I first pass the Col du Varaire at 1,710m, where I stop to eat my blueberry tart bought the day before at the bakery, before continuing on to the Col des Deux Caïres.

Col des Deux Caïres, 1,906m

As I pass over the pass, without really being able to see clearly, I realize that in front of me, this nothingness beyond the last mountains is the sea. That’s it, she’s so close.

We now have to continue up a very, very steep slope, as the GR5 has been diverted by a landslide. This deviation adds around a hundred meters of elevation gain to the original route.

After a good while on a more or less level path, I start to descend towards the Granges de la Brasque.

Les Granges de la Brasque, 1,687m

Bivouac possible about 5/10 minutes’ walk after Les Granges, just after the tapped spring, a flat area near the picnic table on the left. Nearby water source (La Brasque spring)

The descent continues for a while and I’m feeling pretty tired. I pass the Col de Gratteloup then the climb resumes towards the Breche du Brec.

Brèche du Brec, 1,520m

The passage through the gap is nice and scenic, but I pass it without stopping as I don’t really like being exposed to the void. I continue with the descent to Utelle.

Utelle, 821m

Bivouac possible on the plateau opposite the restaurant at the entrance to the village. Water point 2 minutes away. Public toilets near the village square.

I sit down at the restaurant and order a strawberry tart. Meanwhile, I’m having my external battery charged. I meet up with several hikers I met earlier on the trail. I’d planned to continue on to La Chappelle, 1h away, to bivouac, but I’m feeling tired after 8h30 of walking, and decide to stop there. I drink a beer with some hikers before returning to pitch my tent. The next day they’re forecasting thunderstorms and rain in the morning, so I decide to wake up a little earlier the next day, to at least get off to a dry start.